glass mosaic tile installation for a steamer shower
I have always enjoyed the installation of residential tiles. It is attractive to me to think creatively and make artistic statements. Expressing the client\'s design vision requires good communication skills and at least some intuition. Making customers happy and comfortable in their home environment also makes me happy. Nothing compares to the satisfaction of knowing that a job is doing well and seeing a beautiful and properly fitted tile job. In fact, the installation of glass mosaic tiles looks great. The complexity of this glass mosaic device is undoubtedly a challenge. Not long ago Debbie and Ritchie asked me to complete a bathroom that included tiling around the steamer/shower with glass mosaic tiles for shower pots, walls and ceilings. They chose a transparent glass mosaic called Tesserra red 777 Sparkling beside the beach glass tiles in Long Beach, California. I believe they want to see and feel the heat of the steam bath. Glass mosaic tiles are the same color, but the saturation changes randomly: some glass tiles are darker or brighter than others. Each 1 inch square piece of handmade mosaic glass brick has a quarterly inch thick surface that looks notch, crazy or irregular, not smooth. The tile has 12 inch square sheets and the surface is glued to the Brown backing paper with a water-soluble adhesive similar to the wallpaper. The tiles reminded me of the broken ice cubes and the sides gradually became thinner, a slightly textured flat back from the mold. Most of the tiles are quite square, and some of them are slightly trapezoidal in shape, as the molten glass poured into the mold spills 16-inch to form a tile that is broken after cooling. Before I was involved, the bathroom was already framed, the walls and ceiling were covered, and the area around the steamer/shower was placed with green planks. I want to jump in directly, assuming I can apply a layer of the builder\'s felt paper moisture-proof barrier on the green board, then install the cement back panel and wrap it in a waterproof film to hold the steam. But as a relative beginner in any mosaic tile installation, it is a good thing that I have some uncertainty, so I decided to talk to the technical support specialist at Ocean side first. The tech support insisted that I remove the green board from around the steamer/shower. According to the building code, the green board was originally developed as a base material for directly applying tiles and is now not acceptable for any bathroom use. In addition, no matter how slight, steam moisture has the potential to penetrate into the waterproof film, which will eventually inhibit any layer or green cardboard, resulting in deterioration and mold accumulation in places where it will never dry. The recently developed cement backplane, with code approval, has better performance for tiles, especially in wet environments. Then, for a key point of the whole installation, technical support strongly advised me not to apply the waterproof film directly behind any transparent tile. The water will definitely settle behind the tiles, especially where steam will force the tiles to settle and will make some tiles look darker than others. The untreated back plate will spread the water. Finally, expansion joints are essential for glass brick installation and most other tiles, especially in steamer environments where temperature fluctuations are most noticeable. Otherwise, fragile glass bricks will crack or fall off under shear pressure. I was advised to install expansion joints at the inner corners of the walls and ceiling as this Steamer/shower is surrounded by the measured 4\'6 \"wide, 7\'6\" high, 3\'6 \"deep Of course, 2x4 steamer/shower surround area with wall and ceiling with R- 13 pieces of fiberglass. For any steamer/shower, in order to reduce the chance of dripping water caused by steam condensation, it is recommended to tilt the tile ceiling for water flow. I redesigned the flat ceiling to provide a slope of 1 inch per foot, which is my judgment, while the North American tile board recommends a slope of 2 inch per foot (SR614-05). After removing the green plate on the wall and ceiling in the area around the steamer/shower, I installed the builder\'s felt paper on the studs and ceiling beams on the wall, and overlap it on the vinyl film of the shower pan as the last barrier to penetrate the water. I then installed the 1/2 \"cdx plywood which, unlike the green board, does have some external water exposure grade. Another benefit of plywood is the reinforcement of walls and ceilings, creating a stable foundation for glass mosaic tiles. I parked the plywood in that building. On the 16th floor seat above the shower pan as I was worried that the water would flow out of the plywood on the shower pan mortarbed. Below the seat level, I installed the 1/4 \"back plate on the shower tray vinyl film and then applied the hydraulic cement parging to straighten out the back plate bump caused by the vinyl membrane folds and plywood the back plate with the 1/2. I pasted and applied all plywood and back panel joints with white alkaline fiberglass mesh tape and thin sleeve. Of course, Thinset does not penetrate water. Then I applied two thin coats with the matress. A waterproof film system made of a mixture of Mapelastic 315 powder with an undiluted Mapelastic 315 liquid. The powder is reinforced with fiberglass and the liquid is an acrylic latex mixture. Be sure to wear old clothes when using this product, because under the consistency of the pancake batter, this mixture may cover you, especially when working overhead. The waterproof film remains surprisingly flexible when set up and has a strong adhesion to anything. All the inner corners of the plywood are treated with tape, mud and waterproofing. On the waterproof plywood and back plate, I installed the back plate of 1/2, and again I stuck all the joints together, carefully away from the inner corner. At the expansion joint at the angle of the back plate, I installed a waterproof 1/4 \"closed-room polyurethane back bar. I fill in the support bar with gray Latisil NS polyurethane flexible joint filler/sealant. After this preparation, I am ready for the tiles. I am very concerned with the mosaic layout of 1 inch square meters, trying to eliminate the glass cutting and balance the width and height of the field of view. I purchased a pair of glass mosaic tile carbide pliers ( Available from color glass supply shop or tile supplier) Cut the glass with chiseled action. Tiles can also be cut with continuous smooth wet tile saw Edge Diamond blade but I prefer to use hands Hold 4 \"cut with dry grinding and square pliers on Diamond wheels. The glass works in a similar way to ice drilling. I can never be sure of the original square cut, but with some practice the clamp works fine. It turns out that the layout is easy to adjust and the spacing of some irregular tiles is about 1/8 \"to 1/16 \". Most importantly, I tried using more than half of the tiles. Where cut for layout, it is better to cut the tiles a little more than it seems necessary. I started tiling with a shower pan, where I could cut in the surrounding overlapping layout with full wall tiles. The installation of a square drain cover helps simplify tile cutting and complements the square tile theme. I used Mapei Kerabond 102 white dry goods- Set the mortar with an undiluted Keralastic 310 liquid acrylic latex mixture to enhance the bond and bending strength. I am very grateful for the long opening hours of this challenging installation. Using the flat face of the tro knife, I applied the thinset and then used the 3/16 \"x1/4\" V- Notch spatula to determine the appropriate depth of the set bed. I then use the flat face of the spatula again to level the cut line and reduce the possibility of air bags or gaps, resulting in a 1/8 thick consistent set-up bed. The shower pan, seat, wall and ceiling tile mosaic sheet is then applied externally to the fixed bed with brown face paper, using light and uniform pressure to establish the fixed bed contact and eliminate the void. Then, in order to achieve a uniform surface finish, gently tap a 3/4 plywood beating block with a hammer. I quickly applied the subsequent paper, aligned the grouting joint to avoid peeling the solidified bed and unifying the overall tile surface with the beating block. After 15- Set for 20 minutes, I brushed the brown base paper a few times with a home spray bottle, took a shot with a sponge, and used a mixture of water and a small amount of DIF wallpaper. After the water is absorbed into the paper, the glue is released from the paper, allowing the paper to carefully slowly peel off to one side without lifting the tiles. The time for paper removal is critical for not pulling out tiles while allowing half of the set bed Fresh/flexible state. Before the final setting, pay special attention to making the grouting joint adjustment between individual tiles and adjacent paper appear random to eliminate the paper pattern. Some individual tiles may drooping over time I will eventually remove them, scrape out the thin sleeves at the back and reconnect with some new ones. I even used some plastic tile gasket wedges when necessary. Some thin settings penetrate into adjacent grout seams and fill, but the bed set up can solidify overnight. Then, take a putty knife, in the case of relatively soft, you can scrape off the extra thin sleeve from the grouting seam, and do not interfere with the tile. After a longer curing time, I can wipe clean with a wet sponge and remove the remaining paper and glue. I waited a few more days before grouting to make sure the thinset was cured. But before the grouting, I filled the seam angle expansion joint with color-matched sandpaper to make sure that the grouting did not fill the seam. I was surprised by the holding power of thinset, because during the application of grouting, I really had to force it into the tile seam. I used the pearl ash mortar of Mapo color. Of course, the glass tile is not permeable to moisture, so grouting takes longer than other methods. After cleaning up and sealing the grout, I was able to step back knowing that I took the challenge and did something unusual and I was satisfied. Hope Debbie and Ricky are happy to enjoy many relaxing steam baths.